Oysters were valued foods in antiquity so much so that wealthy Roman families paid top transportation charges to rush them from England, packed in compressed snow, in “high-speed” chariots on military highways. Soon astute Roam businessmen started to farm oysters near Rome.

Over time oysters lost their appeal and in the 19th century they were the food of poor Europeans, usually eaten raw or smoked.

These bi-valves thrive in the coastal and temperate waters of the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea, the eastern shores of North America from Nova Scotia all the way south to Virginia, and around the Gulf of Mexico. Japan has also oyster beds.
The soft oyster body is covered with two halves of hard shell held together by one abductor muscle.

There are pearl oysters and edible oysters ranging from 12.5 to 17.5 cm. in length, oblong or round. They take in enormous amounts of water to extract nutrition from microscopic food particles suspended in liquid. The water of oyster beds must be very clean to prevent disease.

Oysters taste best in cold months and from cold waters.

They are rich in protein, phosphors, iodine, calcium, iron and vitamins A, B, and C. Oyster beds exist in Rhode Island, Virginia, Louisiana, Washington State, Oregon, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Normandy, Japan and New Zealand.

Cold water oysters like Arcachon, and Belon form France, Malpeque from Prince Edward Island, Puget Sound (Washington State) are firm in texture, whereas those from Louisiana tend to be soft and relatively salty.

In Canada Malpeque, Bras d’Or, Nova belon, Golden Mantle, Olympia, and Kumamoto are well known and appreciated.

Blue P, (Long island new York), Lynnhaven (Florida), Wallfleet (Maine ), and others are much appreciated in the U S A and exported to Canda.

French love Arcachon and Marennes (Boerdeaux), Tourraine and Belon, Concale, Concarneau and St Brienc (Brittany), Normande and Fine de Mer (Normandy).
The best way to appreciate the salty tang is a drop of lemon juice, a glass of Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire or New Zealand or Oregano or Ontario are highly recommended. Cocktail sauce literally kills the subtle flavour of the oyster.

Oysters are also marketed shucked and canned, smoked or fresh. They can be stewed, or breaded and deep-fried.

Open oysters should be checked for life by tapping them. If the shells close and remain closed they are alive.

Store oysters in the coldest part of the refrigerator or wrapped in a moist towel for a maximum of one day. Make sure to buy oysters from reputable fish mongers with a fast turnover to ensure fresh product.

The oyster bar in the Grand Central Station in new York is the biggest and busiest in the world.

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Few tourists consider putting Guyana on their travel plans because of ignorance of its beauty and splendour.

The country is located on northern South America offers several unique sites and at very reasonable cost.

People speak English, albeit with a decidedly different accent and syntax. The country has Venezuela as a neighbour in the west, Brazil in teh south and Surinam to the east.

This large country, once entirely inhabited by indigenous people, has been under Dutch, French, and English rule fore centuries, until the late president L. Burnham declared it to be a “socialist” republic with overtones of communism. Fortunately his ideas never took root with the population composed of Africans, East Indians, Chinese, Portuguese and native Indians.

Guyana has a population of approximately 600,000 of which 230 000 live in Georgetown, the capital, and the suburbs. The city is located in the Demarara-Mahaica region, and is called “Garden City of the Caribbean”. The tropical climate is conducive to all kinds of vegetative growth.

The Dutch founded Georgetown in the 18th century, and later in 1781, when the English took over, the layout was modified to a grid system. In 1782 after the French took over, the development accelerated, but soon after the English were back. In 1812 the city was named Georgetown in honour of King George III.

It offers many interesting sights – Stabroek Market, for those interested in tropical fruits, produce, and fish, St. George’s Cathedral, the tallest free-standing wooden building in the world, the Law Courts designed by a French architect, the Umana Yana Building (Meeting Place of the People) built by Wai Wai Indians, and the Seawall erected by Dutch engineers to protect the city.

The city is compact and can be explored comfortably on foot.

Several hotels and bed and breakfast establishments can satisfy every levels of accommodation need, and there is n shortage of small restaurants featuring Indian, Chinese, and Caribbean specialties. While there you must try laba and creek water, and taste the incomparable Demerara rum distilled from the sugar canes grown on the banks of the eponymous river.

Service in restaurants is leisurely, friendly, if not amateurish, but pleasant and satisfactory. This charming city can be explored in three to four days. During the remainder of the week you can fly from Georgetown to the Kaieteur Falls in the Rupununi (the flight takes 70 minutes). This majestic waterfall is definitely worth a visit and you won’t soon forget its beauty and majesty. Kaieteur is five times taller (250 metres) than the Niagara Falls.

Several airlines fly to Georgetown’s Cheddi Jagan International Airport from Toronto, Miami, New York, London and Port of Spain (Trinidad and Tobago).

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Meat was once considered a delicacy reserved for special occasions, yet today, at least in North America and in northern European countries quantities that are consumed daily border on dangerous.

Several studies were carried out on meat consumption and the latest research indicated clearly that individuals who eat 115 grams of meat daily run a risk (22 per cent of cancer, and 27 or heart related complications) of dying prematurely.

Red meat should be eaten once or twice a month and no more than 125 – 150 grams at a time. It is better to eat naturally raised chicken and wild fish.

Up to the recent past, people ate mostly vegetables, legumes, and very little fat. Red meat or any protein-rich food was eaten simply in small portions because of high cost only nobility and landowners could afford such luxuries.

In fact according to researchers, it takes 15 000 litres of water to produce one kilogram of red meat versus 1000 litres to grow one of vegetables. Eating excessive amounts of red meat has serious environmental impacts.

Red meat contains important nutrients, including proteins, vitamins B12 and B6, zinc, selenium, niacin, iron, phosphorus and potassium.

The human body needs 20 different proteins, 10 of which are produced by the body using the food consumed; the others have to be consumed. Red or other meats have them, and if consumed in moderate quantities once a week, will provide the required amounts.

Vegetarians make up for protein deficiencies by consuming nuts and legumes.
Regardless, everyone should know that sausages contain inordinate amounts of fat and preservatives. Processed foods i.e salami, prosciutto, and ham contain additives researchers consider to be unhealthy and recommend that they be avoided altogether, or be eaten in very small quantities and infrequently.

If you must eat meat, choose the leanest cuts, or better yet, try buffalo or game. Both are raised in huge farms and roam the land but naturally their meat is lean, though not as “juicy” and succulent as beef.

The question of grass-fed beef is often asked, but seldom honestly answered. Grass-fed beef is leaner than “farmed” beef, and has a grassy, more “rustic” texture.
“Farm raised” beef is fed with industrial feed that contains a lot of additives, and due to concentration of animals in small buildings a must be treated with antibiotics to keep them “healthy” and alive.

This is definitely not natural!

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As is well known, up to the century, court physicians recommended to Kings of France and their entourage wine for their ailments. Some preferred Bordeaux, others Burgundy.

Surprisingly, the results of their recommendations have not been publicized widely.We know little about them Professor Pitte correctly concludes that the residents of Bordeaux business more like Anglo-Saxons whereas Burgundians behave more like emotional Mediterranean merchants.

Here are two comments that should explain their thinking.
“ They are peasants in Burgundy, but boy, oh boy, are they peasants with pretty healthy bank accounts.”

Patrick Forbes, executive producer, Oxford Films and TV
“In Burgundy everything is available to drink and nothing is for sale, in Bordeaux nothing is to drink and all the wine is for sale.”

Burgundian wines are relatively expensive due to supply and demand, in Bordeaux production is much bigger and more uniform. In Bordeaux there are more than 8000 estates (i.e chateaux) which belong to individuals from many countries, whereas in Burgundy there are only 200 major vineyards owned and managed by 20 000 individuals.

This explains the variety and styles in the marketplace of Burgundy wines versus Bordeaux.

Also in Burgundy there are two major grapes pinot noir and chardonnay, whereas in Bordeaux there are many more.

In this seminal book the author delves into the key roles played by medieval monks, dukes and peasant vignerons in building their respective reputations and in creating the rivalry between bourgeois Bordeaux and earth Burgundy that we know today.
This is a book to read and keep as a reference for all wine lovers, particularly those who prefer French products.

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Most people think of shiraz and/or chardonnay when they talk about Australia, yet this huge country with many climates produces a significant amount olive oil.

This industry is relatively young compared to Mediterranean countries, but growers have made good use of up-to-date research conducted by European scientists and selected the most suitable lands and climates to plant their olive groves.

Moore River Region, Margaret River and Great Southern Region in Western Australia, the Fleurie Peninsula in South Australia, North, Central, and Western Victoria, northern slopes of New South Wales, Hunter Valley and the Murray Irrigation Area and South eastern Queensland are the most densely planted. Tasmania also has some groves.

The preferred varieties are – frantoio, correggiolo and lecino, all of which are of Italian origin.

Many producers use olive harvesting machines, but a few prefer the more gentle hand picking.

Olives are pressed within 24 hours of harvest to ensure freshness of the end product.
Extra virgin, virgin, regular, and pomace oils are produced.

Inj view of the fact that Australia has no olive oil tradition, many manufacturers produce and market flavoured olive oils i.e chile, herbs, spices, saffron just to name a few.

Although Australia imports olive oil, it also exports to the U S A, China, New Zealand, even to Italy and Spain.

Australian olive oil is more expensive than Mediterranean products mainly because olive oil groves are much smaller and the government does not have financial support programmes unlike European jurisdictions.

Australian olive oils taste slightly less vacuous than those from Mediterranean countries, but from a flavour perspective can stand their own ground against any on the world.

Canada does import Australian olive oil but so far marketing efforts have been very sporadic and inconsequential.

If and when you visit Australia taste and see for yourself. You may even bring back a few bottles and hope more companies will import them and at prices the average consumer can afford.

Kailis Organic Olive Oil Groves and HJOI export to Canada but are not widely distributed.

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We have changed the name for the blog to better reflect that it is under the main site Winesworld. We also have a guest writer – Hrayr Berberoglu which is writing about wine, food and travel from all over the world. So the new name is better suitable for both.

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Just 20 kilometres south of Siena, Tuscany, the hilly enclave, the commune of Montalcino, measures 16 Km. in diameter with the eponymous town sitting at its highest point. The medieval town appears sleepy and stuck in time, but not when it comes to wine, red wine in particular. Here, the now world-famous Brunello di Montalcino was born, and continues to be produced.

It is one of Italy’s best, and the best tasting red wine derived from the sangiovese clone. Sangiovese is Italy’s most popular red grape variety.

Montalcino is relatively isolated from the mainstream of wine trade and this may partially explain why this high-quality red wine remained obscure long after Ferrucio Biondi-Santi discovered a clone of sangiovese with better flavour and physical attributes than regular vines.

Brunello, literally translated, (the little brown one) yields wines that taste great and age very well. In fact there are still a few bottles of Brunello di Montalcino from the 19th century in the cellars of Biondi-Santi.

But the wine remained relatively unknown both in Italy and abroad well into 1960’s, then Banfi, an American wine importer of Italian origin, decided to import and promote Brunello di Montalcino after establishing a large estate in the region. From then on, there has been a surge in demand, partially because Banfi was successful in marketing the wine in the U S A. No product can succeed in the U. S. A. without well planned and funded promotion activity. However, with fame and increased demand, the inevitable happens – prices start moving upwards.

By 2002 there were well over 70 producers of Brunello di Montalcino (more than ten times in the past 50 years), producing close to six million bottles, whereas in 1960 the number was 100,000.

In 1960 the Italian government promulgated wine laws. For Brunello di Montalcino, the minimum barrel aging was stipulated as 42 months, plus 12 months in the bottle.
Occasionally, the fruit fails to ripen fully. This happens infrequently in Montalcino. Such vintages are described as “mediocre” or l”less successful”.

Grapes that are not fully ripe yield a wine that does not benefit from lengthy barrel aging. Thus, in 1990 the compulsory barrel aging was reduced to 36 months and 12 months int eh bottle.

For riserva quality, one more year of aging is required. Some winemakers age their wines in 225 litre French (Allier and Vosges) barrels for a short time and make up the required ageing in the bottle. This keeps the wine vibrant. .

A Brunello di Montalcino of a highly rated vintage requires at least ten years of cellaring before it sheds its youthfulness, then the flavours harmonize.
It is important to distinguish Brunello di Montalcino from Rosso di Montalcino, which is made using brunello grapes, but barrel aged only for six months and an equal period in bottles. Needless to say, Rosso di Montalcino costs one-third of regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Here are now two styles – traditional, svelte model that ages well, yielding rich and opulent wines, and more fruity, concentrated, intense, and powerful versions with distinct cherry aromas. The latter pleases the nose and is full bodied on the mid-palate. North Americans prefer this version.

Presently, 65 per cent of Brunello di Montalcino goes to the U S A, five to the United Kingdom, ten to Switzerland, and an equal amount to Germany. Canadian liquor control boards, mainly by the government owned Liquor Control Board of Ontario, purchase a small quantity.

In Europe Swiss and Germans travel to Tuscany, even for a weekend, and visiting tourists are responsible for much of the sales.

The fortress of Montalcino is both a museum and a wine shop, featuring the products of all wineries and other agricultural products, namely pecorino Toscano, honey and salumi.

Many wineries, including Col d’Orcia, Altesino, and others, are involved with clonal selection research to determine the most suitable for the region. Meanwhile, the Bindi-Santi clone is declared a National heritage by the Italian government as clone 5 BBS.

Sangiovese is a difficult grape, highly sensitive to its environment, thin-skinned, slow ripening, and prone to rot if it rains when the grapes are ripe. Over-cropping sangiovese dilutes its flavour. 6 – 7,000 vines per hectare works best, with severe pruning to limit the yield to five to five-and-half tons per hectare.

In Montalcino, the soil is clay based with patches of galestro (crumbly marl-like soil). Clay based soils yield structurally strong wines, whereas those of galestro produce elegant and refined wines.

The best and richest wines emerge from the sun-baked vineyards south of Montalcino.
Biondi-Santi’s Il Greppo vineyard is located there.

Just outside of town is Fattoria dei Barbi, owned and managed by Donna Colombini-Cinelli. Her son is now in charge of day-to-day management of the property, in addition to another vineyard in Maremma closer to the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west.
Fattoria dei Barbi is well known for its cellar-worthy wines, particularly riserva quality that must be aged longer than regular Brunello di Montalcino.

Fattoria dei Barbi’s wines are reasonably priced. The 400-hectare property produces cheese, wheat, sausages and ham. The on-site restaurant serves typical Tuscan fare, well worth experiencing.

Barrel aging has now become problematic. Previously, wineries employed botte (upright Slovenian oak barrel with a capacity of 75 hectolitres). Now winemakers are debating whether they should employ 25 hectolitres botte, or use French oak (Allier or Nevers) with 225 litre capacity. Small barrels age the wine faster and impart strong oak flavours if maturation is prolonged. Then there is the question whether old barrels should be used (second or third year) as opposed to new for every vintage.
Of course, any winery can decide to sell Rosso di Montalcino after one year of barrel aging, but the flavour difference is noticeable, and so is the price.

Here are some of the most reputable Brunello di Montalcino wineries:
Fattoria dei Barbi, Biondi-Santi, Col dèOrcia, Marchesi Antinori, Argiano, Castello Banfi, Tentua Nuova, Ciacci, Piccolomini dèAragona, Val di Sugo, Siro Pacenti, Conti Constanti, Casa Nova delle Cerbaie, Fanti, Il Palazonne, Lisini, Salicutti Piaggione, Livio Sassetti, Silvio Nardi, Castelgiocondo, Casanovo di Neri, Tentimenti Anglini, Capanna, Frescobaldi, La Gerla, Poggio Antico, Roberto Cosini and Romitorio.

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Long celebrated for its fine sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot gris, New Zealand is now turning heads with its pinot noir, merlot and blends.

Standing apart from most New World wine regions, the climate is cooler and winemakers approach the craft definitively with 21st century technology and mentality. They create red wines that harmonize traditional elegance with contemporary tastes, and wine enthusiasts the worlds over have decided to enjoy them.

New Zealand vineyards get plenty of sunshine but are considerably cooler than those in Australia due to the ocean surrounding both islands. Vineyards are scientifically planted, and managed to yield the best quality fruit possible.

Winemakers aim to produce high quality, because the output is small and must offer an incentive to consumers to buy. Prices are reasonable.

New Zeeland’s pinot noir wines are closer in style to Burgundy red than elsewhere in the world. The cool maritime climate imparts bright acidity, with cherry, berry, plum and pomegranate flavours.

Central Otago in the south island has a short time, become the centre of New Zealand pinot noir production, but central Otago is not the only region that excels in pinot noir. Nelson, adjacent to Marlborough, also produces fine pinot noir wines.
Merlot from Hawkes Bay in the north island is full-bodied, always well balanced, fruit-driven and elegant. They are very approachable in their youth, but can also be cellared for a few years.

Syrah is the “new” red grape of New Zealand, and Hawkes Bay has already been recognized to produce some of the best in the land. Elephant Hill, a German-owned and managed winery, produced northern Cotes du Rhone style syrah that is remarkable.

Here are the red wines of this year’s New Zealand tasting in Toronto:

Pinot Noir, 2006, Carrick, Central Otago
Complex aromas of dark fruit flavours with bitter chocolate overtones. The finish is long an satisfying.
$ 35.95 available at Vintages

Pinot Noir, 2006, Schubert, Martinborough
This small, family-operates winery’s pinot noir can be favourably compared to any Cote de Beaune 1er cru. It is brilliant in colour, smells of strawberries, tastes “juicy” and in the mouth reveals a layered texture.
92/100

Merlot, 2007, Ngatarawa Stables, Hawkes Bay
Easy drinking, mid-weight crimson-coloured, smells of berries, and displays spicy flavours.
90/100
Available at Vintages

Merlot, 2007, Coopers Creek, Hawkes Bay
This brilliant wine includes 12 per cent malbec, is fruity (raspberry and plum) and complex, with fine tannins.
89/100

Syrah, 2008, Elephant Hills, Hawkes Bay
From a new German-owned and managed winery, this syrah seduces the nose with pepper and fruit aromas, buttressed with refined tannins and pleasant acidity.
91/100
$ 28.95
Agency HHD Imports info”hhdimprots.com

Soultaker Pinot Noir, 2007, Gibbotson Highgate Estate, Central Otago
An excellent example of a fine pinot noir. Smells of strawberries dominate. Full bodied, dark, nuanced and long in the finish.
90é100
$ 45.00
Agent : laura.higgins”simpatico.ca

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When the Vikings first reached the shores of eastern America, the land was covered with wild grapes that belong to vitis rotundifolia, – labrusca and – riparia family grape varieties. They resist severe colds (below – 25 C) and are relatively immune to the phylloxera vastatrix aphid.

Unfortunately, they contain methyl antrinilate and impart a chemical and unpleasant aroma to wines. The grapes are highly acidic and sugar or de-acidification. Well into1970’s, old large volume oriented wineries insisted that fine wines can be made from these grapes or their hybrids.

The Free Trade Agreement with the U S A was a wake up call and visionary winery owners (D. Ziraldo, K.Kaiser, and Paul Bosc) saw the writing on the wall, and quickly reverted to vitis vinifera grape varieties that yield superior quality, but resist cold less successfully than native varieties. Before them, late John Marynissen had planted on his vineyards between Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls vitis vinfiera, and proved that they can, with due care, survive harsh climates.

Today, the majority of grape farmers and wineries plant vitis vinifera grapes and/or labrusca hybrids that have the “foxiness” outbred of them.

Modern Canadian viticulture has a short history (about 40 years or so) but during this period applying European research to local conditions made a lot of advances.
Today there is still some experimentation going on by winemakers, grape growers, and the Cool Climate School of Oenology at the Brock University.

British Columbia farmers use more or less the same grape varieties with a sprinkling of more German varieties. Thanks to late Dr. H. Becker, the director of Geisenheim School of Oenology, who had a soft spot for Canadian grape growers.

Here are the grape varieties used for a range of wines:

Aligote – (less than two hectares) mostly planted in Ontario. Originally from Burgundy, this grape yields fruity but acid-driven wines that require food. High yielding aligote is produced as a varietal by Chateau des Charmes in St Catharines. Other wineries use it for blending.

L’Acadie blanc (approximately 20 hectares in Nova Scotia). Was developed by the Horticultural Research Institute in Ontario for harsh winters. Produces abundantly, but highly acid grapes with low fruitiness.

Auxerrois (50 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia) Native to Alsace, auxerrois withstands cold temperatures well. The wines from low yield sites smell of apples and pears with floral undertones. Only a few wineries produce auxerrois as a varietal wine.

Bacchus (20 hectare in British Columbia only). A cross of riesling, silvaner and muller-thurgau. Produces finely scented wines if fully ripe. British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is very suitable for bacchus, and Gehringer Brothers winery is well known for its floral off-dry bacchus wines.

Chardonnay (1000 hectares 60 per cent in Ontario and remainder in British Columbia) – is the most popular grape variety with a great future in Ontario, although it originates in Burgundy. The grape has a relatively neutral taste and lends itself well to different styles of winemaking.

It can be made without oak aging, or with, in a number of different oak barrels and toast levels. Some winemakers ferment the must in barrels for additional flavour and to prolong aging potential.

In British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley chardonnay yields softer and very approachable wines

Chardonnay musque (10 hectares) is a highly aromatic clone of chardonnay. In Burgundy it is classified as a chardonnay clone. The fruitiness fades after two years and the wine takes on more chardonnay flavours.

Chenin blanc (10 hectares) This versatile grape variety yields in the Loire Valley wines ranging from dry to off dry and sweet. The best fruit in Canada comes from British Columbia due to climate. It has a natural, pleasant acidity and lends itself well as a base for sparkling wine. Outside of Loire it is extensively planted in South Africa, California and Argentina.

Gewurztraminer (285 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originated in the town of Tramin in northern Italy, but came to prominence in Alsace with a “spicy” clone discovered there. The most famous and flavourful gewürztraminers come from Alsace. In Canada, British Columbia grows more flavourful fruit, if yields are kept low. Gewurztraminer yields dry wines that are floral, and spicy, with lychee nut flavours. Sweeter versions go best with seared fattened goose liver, or pates of it.

Some Ontario wineries produce superbly balanced and delicious gewürztraminer icewines,

Riesling (540 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). This classic German grape does well in the Ontario Peninsula and yields fine wines ranging from dry to super sweet in the form of icewine. Riesling is a versatile grape, resists cold weather, needs a long, moderately warm growing season, but must be well pruned to keep yields low. Yields up to seven tons per hectare yield flavourful wines.

Ontario’s terroir yields better quality fruit. There are several wineries that produce outstanding Riesling wines in both Ontario and British Columbia.

Sauvignon blanc (220 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from the Loire Valley, this grape yields fine wines when the fruit is picked ripe. It yields dry wines with aromas of gooseberries, freshly moved grass, and herbal nuances. It is sensitive to cold weather.

Pinot Gris (pinot grigio, Grauburgunder) (230 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). A relative of pinot noir, it has become popular mostly due to its light fruity versions hailing from northern Italy. Pinot gris may be fruity and floral at the same time with a spicy edge. British Columbia pinot gris has more depth than the Ontario versions.

Alsace produces very flavourful pinot gris wines with a more pronounced texture.

Pinot blanc (pinot bianco, Weissburgunder) (110 hectares in British Columbia and Ontario).

Another mutation of pinot noir, but needs warm growing season. Wines smell of apples and pears and may be full bodied if the yield is kept low and fruit picked ripe. Pinot blanc is more successful in British Columbia but losing ground to more popular pinot grigio.

Semillon (20 hectares British Columbia and Ontario). A fine aromatic grape requiring hot growing season. Does well in Bordeaux, Australia, California, and British Columbia in Canada. Mostly used in blending.

Viognier (15 hectares in British Columbia and Ontario). At home in southern Cotes du Rhone this aromatic grape is a newcomer to Canada. The best come from Condrieu and smell of apricots and peaches. Viognier grows well in British Columbia, Australia, California, and Cotes du Rhone.

Vidal (670 hectares), mostly planted in Ontario. This hybrid a.k.a Vidal 256 is a cross of ugni blanc (trebbiano) and S 4986. Vidal is prolific and thick-skinned, winter hardy, and popular in Ontario particularly for icewine. Grapes resist shattering when frozen on the vine. It can be made to a fine dry wine in the hands of capable winemakers.

Seyval blanc (cross between S 5656 and S 4986). Used to be very popular in Ontario due to its winter hardiness, but yield a relatively neutral-flavoured wine mostly used for sparkling wine blends and still wine component.

Gruner Veltliner (less than five hectares). Is a popular Austrian acid-driven grape with a few hectares in Ontario. Inniskillin used to produce a varietal wine, but stopped due to marketing difficulties. Gruner Veltliner can yield lively, fruity wines when picked ripe.

Muscat-Ottonel (30 hectares in Ontario, British Columbia and Nova Scotia). Originally from the Loire Valley. It yields floral, fruity wines, particularly when harvested late. A few Ontario wineries make and market Muscat-Ottonel.

Optima (five hectares in British Columbia) is a cross between Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe, and yields fine, fruity, honeyed wines when harvested ripe. It likes hot climates.

Kerner is a cross between courtillier musque and riesling – A few hectares exist in Ontario and at least one winery produces a fine fruity, off dry varietal. It is highly recommended for fruit bowls, and patio sipping.

Ehrenfelser (25 hectares in British Columbia). It is a cross between riesling and silvaner Developed in Germany, it produces floral, fruity, low-alcohol wines, which are eminently suitable for patio sipping. Gehringer Brothers winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley produces fine Ehrenfelser varietals.

There are a few hectares of Geisenheim 234 in Prince Edward County and probably a few more planted by curious and experiment-oriented growers.

Red grapes

Baco noir is one of the more successful French hybrid grapes in Ontario (400 hectares). It is a cross of folle blanche and riparia, and was developed by Francois Baco, a French hybridiser) in 1902. It ripens early, is winter hardy, and yields fine wines if not over cropped. It deserves more attention than it gets by consumers, who believe it to be inferior because of its parentage. There are two Ontario wineries that produce fine baco noirs.

De Chaunac (unknown parentage but related to S 5.163) is popular in Ontario due to its winter hardiness. It can produce respectable mid-weight wines if not over cropped. Its popularity is fast declining in Ontario, but increasing in Nova Scotia.

Chambourcin – Joannes Seyve, a French hybridiser, developed Chambourcin. Yields wines of deep colour and full body. It used to be quite popular in 1980’s in Ontario, but is now used as a blending wine.

Marechal Foch (Kuhlmann 188.2). A cross between riparia-rupestris and goldriesling. developed by Kuhlmann, an Alsatian, director of the wine school there and hybridiser. Marechal Foch is winter hardy, ripens early and yields purple, mid-weight wines. It used to be very popular in Ontario. Still a few Ontario wineries use it for blending. In Nova Scotia it is used to produce a varietal.

Leon-Millot (Kuhlmann 194.2) possesses the same parentage as Marechal Foch. This vigorous and early ripening grape used to be quite popular 30 years ago, but has been losing ground for some time.

Chancellor (S 5163X S800) a fruitful and winter hardy hybrid that yields light, fruity wines. It is losing popularity to vitis vinifera grapes.

Chelois (Seibel 10.878) a moderately productive, winter hardy vine that yields mid-weight wines. Now used mostly in blends.

Cabernet franc (600 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from Bordeaux this cool climate vitis vinifera grows well in Ontario. Yields fine, fruity, “spicy” wines if not over cropped. In cool seasons the wines can taste herbaceous. Mostly used in Bordeaux style blends (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) as the “spicy” component. A few Ontario wineries produce cabernet franc varietals that are “juicy”, succulent, and very appealing. There are few wineries that produce a cabernet franc icewine with appealing texture and flavour.

Cabernet sauvignon (650 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). Originally from Bordeaux it requires a long, warm growing season. When fully ripe it yields fruity wines (mostly berry aromas), mid-weight to full bodied that that age well. It is tannic and requires careful wine making and blending techniques. In British Columbia a few wineries produce outstanding cabernet sauvignon varietals and Bordeaux blends.

Gamay noir (220 hectares in Ontario and British Columbia). A native of Beaujolais in southern Burgundy. Yields fruity light wines if properly pruned. It requires warm growing seasons. Some wineries have been making gamay wines for a number of years but in general this delightful grape failed to capture the imagination of consumers.

Nebbiolo (less than five hectares in Ontario). Believe it or not one Ontario winery has been successful in growing this capricious thin-skinned grape originally from Piedmont in northern Italy.

Merlot (400 hectares in Ontario and 375 in British Columbia). A native of Bordeaux, this soft and fruity wine-yielding grape has been planted for a number of years, and is mostly used in meritage (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) blends. Now some wineries use the term meritage, copied from California, instead of the term Bordeaux blend.

In British Columbia it ripens fully and smells reminiscent of plums yielding luscious wines. In southern Okanagan Valley merlot yields fine, dark-coloured and intense wines.

When over cropped, it yields neutral-tasting wine and needs a warm, long growing season. When unripe, the taste of merlot is disappointing.

Sangiovese, the most popular red wine grape of Italy, has been planted in Ontairo for experimental purposes. It is too early to say how it will evolve.

Syrah/Shiraz (50 hectares in British Columbia and 20 in Ontario). Syrah is the main grape of northern Rhone Valley where yields spectacular wines. In Australia where it is called Shiraz, it yields fruit-forward, dark, highly alcoholic wines that are blended with viognier (a white grape) to tone it down.

In British Columbia syrah grows well and yields intense wines. In Ontario it has been quite successful as it ripens early, providing vines were pruned for low yield.

Pinot noir is a native of Burgundy. This capricious grape needs a cool and long growing season and must be pruned for low yield. It is prone to mutation and susceptible to rot on humid days.

Pinot noir can yield fine wines in Ontario and British Columbia if planted on the right terroir and with the right clone.

Prince Edward County seems to have suitable terroir for pinto noir if yields are kept low. There have been some successful pinot noir wines in Ontario and British Columbia i.e Clos Jordanne, Closson Chase, Flat Rock, and Vineland Estates.

Zinfandel (under five hectares in Ontario). Originally from southern Italy, there called primitivo, it was transplanted in California and the name changed to zinfandel. It was the workhorse of the wine industry in California for a long time. Even today, a large area of land is devoted to zinfandel. Zinfandel can yield fine, spicy, dark-coloured, full-bodied, very flavourful wines but also very pale and off dry products pending on winemaking technique applied. Regardless, in Ontario, only a few growers have planted a few hectares for experimental purposes.

Zweigelt (under 10 hectares in Ontario). This Austrian crossing (Blaufrankisch x St Laurent) was developed by professor Zweigelt at the Klosterneuburg Wine Station and School of Oenology south of Vienna. It ripens early, yields generously and can be made to dark, fruity, age-worthy wines.
Pelee Island winery has been quite successful with this grape mainly due to the location of the vineyards.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?

He is not just a chef de cuisine, but understands perfectly that a restaurant owner’s/manager’s responsibility is to generate satisfied guests who become regular patrons. This can only be achieved by pleasing their palates and provide service with care.

Lessons in Wine Service never touches on the technical aspects of serving wine, i.e opening the bottle, decanting, and pouring.

This book is all about “reading the table” and catering to the needs of guests who were lucky enough to get a reservation in the celebrated restaurant of Charlie trotter.

The author E.O. Lawler explains in sufficient detail how Charlie Trotter encourages his sommeliers and service staff to be of service, how he sends them to famous wine regions and wineries to explore their philosophy, and experience the “terroir” where the grapes are grown, harvested, and vinified.

They in turn can authoritatively and convincingly communicate their experiences to guests.

Here the author explains how all service staff attend weekly information meetings, how wines are to be described, sold, served, and cared for.

Charlie Trotter’s restaurant is expensive, but it offers value to those who can afford to dine there. His sommeliers are instructed to sell wine according to the needs of guests. Should a guest state that he could only afford a low-priced wine, it is provided.

There are very expensive wines on his extensive (60 pages) wine list. Some go for $ 35,000.00 but there are also $ 50.00 bottles which are available and taste fine.

Winemakers and winery owners such a A. Gaja from Piedmont, Joy Sterling CEO of Iron Horse Vineyards, and many others regularly visit Charlie Trotter’s restaurant to present their new vintages or present their wines.

In all, this is an excellent book on restaurant service, management philosophy, and effective training, and should be on the reading list of all sommelier programmes, all restaurant managers (even at eateries that serve no alcoholic beverages) and servers.

A “must read” book for all involved in the service industry.

Never miss a post! subscribe via RSS or subscribe via e-mail.   Post writer – Hrayr Berberoglu – E-mail – Read his books?